A Deep Dive into Popular Rolex Watch Bracelets

For more than a century, the beauty, sophistication, and intricacy of Rolex, the renowned Swiss watch brand, have been witnessed by people all over the world. Through its undying popularity, no matter the era, Rolex watches have remained highly sought after by collectors worldwide. One of the most iconic features of a Rolex is its 'bracelet.' Therefore, this article will take readers on a journey into the charming world of timepieces once again with a new series that tells the story of the 'flawless sophistication of Rolex bracelets,' starting by getting to know the different types of Rolex bracelets found on popular models. Read on.

Rolex Oyster Bracelet

Excluding leather straps, the Oyster bracelet likely holds the title of the oldest Rolex bracelet. However, it was not originally produced by Rolex. Before Rolex began manufacturing their own bracelets, they utilized the services of Gay Frères, known as the most expert bracelet maker of the era, for two primary reasons:

1. In that era, watchmakers did not typically sell timepieces with bracelets included. Because the value of the bracelet was nearly half that of the watch head, people preferred to purchase them separately.

2. Gay Frères was the most famous metal bracelet manufacturer, reflecting Rolex's intention to use the best materials at every stage of production.

Since the bracelet was crafted with the creativity, refinement, and expertise of Gay Frères, it was highly anticipated to gain popularity from generation to generation—and the results proved it. Featuring a three-link metal design with broad, flat components and a rugged, sporty look, the Rolex Oyster bracelet was patented just 17 years after its first release in 1930, leading into 1947. Later, the addition of hollow "Flush-Fit" end links helped the bracelet integrate perfectly with the watch case, before the solid end links, which remain popular today, were introduced to make the Rolex Oyster bracelet even more complete.

The Rolex Oyster bracelet can be paired with all Rolex clasps. However, the Oysterlock clasp with a safety bar is particularly popular, especially on sports models like the Submariner or Explorer, as well as other classic models like the Datejust, Daytona, or Sky-Dweller. For this reason, the Rolex Oyster bracelet is suitable for both men and women.

Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

The Rolex Jubilee bracelet first appeared in the watch world in 1945. Distinguished by its five-piece metal link design with a fluid shape, it features the Crownclasp, which reflects the elegance of the Oysterclasp. Suitable for both men and women, it became just as popular as the traditional Rolex Oyster bracelet. While originally intended for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust, it now appears on other models within the Oyster collection as well.

Rolex President Bracelet

The Rolex President bracelet was first introduced to the world in 1956, debuting with the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date. To this day, it remains the primary bracelet used for this model, with the exception of certain Datejust versions made from special metals. The hallmark of the Rolex President bracelet is that it is made exclusively from precious metals, featuring a discreet, hidden Crownclasp. Additionally, the three-piece bracelet is distinguished by its semi-circular links, giving it a particularly harmonious appearance.

In the United States, the Rolex Day-Date is often nicknamed the "Rolex President," owing to the luxury of the bracelet and its popularity among many presidents.

Rolex Pearlmaster Bracelet

Another Rolex bracelet that became famous from a single model at the time of its release is the one bearing the same name, which debuted in 1992. However, as time has passed, the Rolex Pearlmaster bracelet has also become popular for use with special versions of the Datejust and Day-Date.

Like the Jubilee bracelet, the Pearlmaster bracelet consists of five-piece links, but differs in that the Pearlmaster links are rounded. Its fluid design and hidden Crownclasp give the bracelet an exceptionally luxurious and understated look, making it the ideal Rolex bracelet for ladies.

Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

The latest Rolex bracelet hit the market in 2015, presented on the Yacht-Master. The unique hallmark of the Oysterflex bracelet is its durability, combined with the characteristics of a sporty strap, featuring a high-performance metal core encased in black elastomer. Beyond its high level of wearing comfort, this type of Rolex bracelet fits the wrist particularly well due to special cushioning pads attached to the inside, and it comes with an Oysterlock safety clasp, making it as reliable as a standard metal bracelet.

Rolex Leather Straps

Rolex Leather Strap

Although stainless steel bracelets are more popular than leather straps in the world of Rolex watches, leather straps also have a story worth mentioning. Looking back in history, almost all the first wristwatches produced by Rolex used special leather straps with elegant folding clasps. Even today, many fine Rolex leather straps are available, ranging from the Cellini to certain versions of the Rolex Day-Date.

Bracelet Details: Size and Number of Links

When buying a pre-owned luxury watch online, one of the most important questions is whether the bracelet size will fit your wrist. Additionally, the clasp adjustment must be precise, and the number of bracelet links is also a crucial factor.

Often, links can be removed from or added to a Rolex watch to perfectly adjust the length of the bracelet to the wrist circumference. But what happens if the previous owner has already done this, and in the worst-case scenario... the links are missing!

How many links does a Rolex come with?

Generally, knowing how many links a Rolex bracelet consists of requires the correct counting method. However, counting the links is quite simple: count all links, excluding the end links, extension clasps (Easylink or Glidelock), and half-links inside the clasp.

When counting a Rolex Oyster bracelet this way, you will find that most consist of 13 links. However, the number can vary by sub-model, ranging from 11 to 15 links. For example, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 126613LB or 126610LN comes with 11 links plus a half-link from the factory, while a complete Jubilee bracelet consists of 22 links, excluding end links. The prestigious President bracelet for the Day-Date also has 22 links, excluding the two end links, while the Pearlmaster bracelet comes with 12 links in total.

Bracelet Model	Bracelet Reference Number	Number of Links	Width	Extension	Example
Oyster	77210	12 (with 6 removable links)	21 mm	5 mm (Oysterlock, Easylink)	Explorer II (ref. 216570)
President	83208	22 (with 7 removable links)	20 mm	No (Crownclasp)	Day-Date (ref. 118238)
Jubilee	63600	22 (with 7 removable links)	20 mm	No (Crownclasp)	Datejust 36 (Ref. 116234)
Pearlmaster	72845	12 (with 3 removable links)	17 mm	No (Crownclasp)	Pearlmaster (ref. 81315)

Different Types of Rolex Clasps

Every Rolex bracelet comes with a matching clasp. Depending on the model, these may have additional features beyond acting as a fastener. For example, some Rolex clasps allow the bracelet to be extended by several centimeters in seconds without tools, while others are integrated so discreetly that they can only be identified by a small crown symbol. These clasps blend elegantly and harmoniously with the watch's overall design, fading completely into the background.

A summary of the different types of clasps is provided in the table below.

Clasp Type	Features
Oysterclasp system	Sport-style clasp that opens by pushing or pulling the top of the clasp.
Oysterlock clasp	A folding clasp with an additional safety lock to prevent accidental opening.
Crownclasp system	A logo-shaped clasp that adds luxury and blends seamlessly with the bracelet (Jubilee or President).
Pin buckle	A pin-style buckle suitable for leather straps.
Pearlmaster clasp	A clasp designed specifically for the Pearlmaster collection that integrates perfectly with the bracelet design.

Rolex watch clasp

Different clasp types can also be equipped with various locking systems. For example, Submariner models (ref. 116613LB) come with an Oysterlock safety clasp and a Glidelock system. It is recommended to examine the clasp on your Rolex more closely; you might be surprised by these additional features.

Clasp Type	Features
Fliplock (expansion links)	The simplest way to extend the bracelet with three extra folding links.
Glidelock (extension system)	The bracelet can be extended up to 20 mm (or 26 mm in the case of the Deepsea with additional Fliplock links) using a sliding mechanism.
Easylink (extension)	The bracelet can be extended up to 5 mm by folding out a Half-Link.

You can tell if your Rolex folding clasp is closing securely by the fact that it cannot be opened easily and by a distinct clicking sound when closing. Naturally, the pin buckle on a Rolex leather strap is an exception to this.

Overview of Rolex Clasp Date Codes

This section provides an overview of known clasp codes and their production years, allowing you to verify if the clasp matches the production year of your watch or if it has been replaced. The clasp code can be found on the inside of the clasp, as well as at the end of the bracelet and sometimes on other parts of the bracelet, though it does not provide information about the type of clasp.

Most Rolex clasp codes consist of one or two letters and a number between 1 and 12. The letters indicate the production year, while the final number provides information about the month of production in sequence. As is often the case with Rolex systems, all information is gathered based on the manufacturer's knowledge and consensus, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed.

Production Year	Clasp Code	Production Year	Clasp Code
1976	VA	1994	S
1977	VB	1995	T
1978	VC	1996	V
1979	VD	1997	Z
1980	VE	1998	U
1981	F	1999	X
1982	G	2000	AB
1983	H	2001	DE
1984	I	2002	DT
1985	J	2003	AD
1986	K	2004	CL
1987	L	2005	MA
1988	M	2006	OP
1989	N	2007	EO
1990	O	2008	PJ
1991	P	2009	LT
1992	Q	2010	RS
1993	R	From 2011	Three-digit combination

In 2011, Rolex changed its numbering system for clasp serial numbers, switching to a three-digit code consisting of numbers, letters, or a combination of both. Since these combinations do not follow any specific pattern, the new clasp codes no longer provide any information regarding the production year of a particular watch model.

Own a high-quality, authentic Rolex timepiece at Pixiu Watch

The history of Rolex watch bracelets in this article has come to an end, but if you are captivated by their timeless craftsmanship and wish to own an authentic, well-priced Rolex, look no further than Pixiu Watch. We are a second-hand luxury watch store that curates every precious timepiece, and we buy high-quality Rolex watches for you to choose from. We invite you to discover the right charm with the beautiful watch you desire, while providing professional consultation and guidance from experts who have long understood the passions of collectors.

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References
Oyster, President and Jubilee – Rolex bracelets at a glance. Retrieved October 12, 2023, from https://www.watchmaster.com/en/journal/brand-guide/rolex-bracelets-an-overview