AP Chronicles Series EP. 4: The Case of the AP Royal Oak
Following the previous article, the journey that left its mark on the history of the watch world for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has not yet come to an end. On the contrary, there are many more stories that watch lovers should read, as every aspect is like a puzzle piece that gradually fits together to create a big picture, providing the answer to why the AP watch has been held in such enduring high regard.
The Tough Challenge of Water Resistance
The birth of the AP Royal Oak watch contains details about the inspiration of Gérald Genta, the designer of the Royal Oak, drawn from his childhood memories. He dedicated himself to watch design and once stated:
"When I was young, there were no water-resistant watches. I remember seeing a diver put a helmet over a Pont de la Machine watch to keep it dry. I liked it a lot; I was impressed when I saw the eight screws and rubber seal designed to protect people's lives underwater. I wanted to create a water-resistant watch to pay tribute and remember that helmet."
This is the origin of the development story of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak wristwatch case, water-resistant to 100 meters, in collaboration with the company Favre-Perret from La Chaux-de-Fonds. After the prototype was produced in gold, a highly flexible material, the cases produced in this series were made of steel but still adorned with a variety of precious stones.
An All-in-One Case Structure
The monocoque case of the AP Royal Oak watch combines the middle part of the case, the case back, and the bracelet into one, carved from a single piece of steel, including the first two links of the bracelet. The case back blends the curved, barrel-like edges with a circle; when viewed from the back, the circle disappears as it blends perfectly into the rounded octagon. Reflecting the bezel, the details are engraved as if they were a case back, gradually smoothing out as they merge with the bracelet. The side view reveals a full customization of these intricate components, with the center of the case slightly curved to fit the shape of the wrist.
A 2012 article in the Royal Oak 40th anniversary brochure detailed the steps involved in producing the components for the 15202 model as follows:
"This means that after the initial cutting of the piece, there are over 44 additional steps—including machining, edge chamfering, and engraving—that must be performed entirely separately before reaching the stage of bringing the monohull case into the hand-finishing process. Once the case for mounting the movement is assembled, it's time for the finishing work with satin-brushing on the case, sides, and lugs."
In 1972, the case finishing process was even more complex, as the watch industry was not yet using computer-controlled (CNC) machinery. On the other hand, the manual finishing process has remained almost unchanged over the last five decades. The sales specifications for the Royal Oak 5402 model stated:
"Middle case: finished with satin brushing on the top and sides, horizontally satin-brushed edges, polished bevels, and circular satin brushing at the bottom of the case, combined with sandblasting in the remaining areas."
It is worth noting the circular brushing on the inside of the middle case, which can only be seen when a watchmaker disassembles the case. Martin K. Wehrli pointed out that this is a traditional finishing technique for watches from the pre-water-resistant era, used to trap small dust particles that enter inside, preventing them from settling onto the movement.
The Octagonal Bezel and Sapphire Crystal
Although the bezel of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak wristwatch is often defined as octagonal, its details go much further. It starts from a circular center, while the outer edge is an octagon, polished vertically and elegantly curved. With a 40-degree angle, it follows the rounded octagonal shape of the frame perfectly, resulting in edges covered with a fine satin finish. The polishing machine helps create a mirror-like surface that emphasizes the traditional technique of chamfering. When viewed from the front, this part occupies nearly a quarter of the bezel's surface and connects flawlessly with the light shimmering on the Tapisserie dial, continuing to the beveled edges of the bracelet.
At each of the eight corners of the curves that pierce the bezel, there are hexagonal holes for screws, following the conventions of watchmaking. Sometimes the dial has hour markers, either at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, or at each hour. Traditionally, case-securing screws were always hidden. However, Gérald Genta was a watch designer with a progressive vision; he did not follow tradition and structured the circumference of the bezel with eight elements, independent of the dial. Furthermore, he left the bezel with visible securing screws. For aesthetic reasons, he decided not to screw them in at the classic 12 o'clock position. It can be said that Genta designed a bezel driven by its own internal dynamics and aesthetic rhythm, independent of the dial, while still fully reflecting the design of the unique case and bracelet.
With a maximum thickness of two millimeters, the inside of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" bezel is partially hollowed out to provide space for the water-resistant seal. A small part of the bottom is cut so that the edge of the sapphire crystal base is not overly exposed to sunlight, while also remaining water-resistant when the case is sealed under pressure.
Buy authentic AP watches at Pixiu Watch
The story of the Royal Oak case creation is only halfway finished. You can follow the next part in the upcoming article from Pixiu Watch. And if anyone would like to own an authentic AP watch Royal Oak, look no further than Pixiu Watch. We are a second-hand brand-name watch store that gathers all precious timepieces, allowing you to search for the right charm with the beautiful watch you desire,พร้อมพร้อมพร้อม พร้อม providing professional advice and recommendations for those who have long understood the passion of collectors.
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References
- THE FIRST ROYAL OAK CASES. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/the-first-royal-oak-cases
